In June 2022, at Central Saint Martins BA Fashion graduate show, Olly Shinder presented a body of work that established his grammar as a fashion designer. It synthesised the technical specificity of military and performance wear with an elevated design sensibility innate to luxury fashion. Now, for the designer’s sophomore collection, he offers a confident development on the preliminary signatures first shown there.
Standout designs from the collection are reassessed with aplomb, imbued with fresh graphic and formal intricacy. Workwear uniforms are taken as a point of departure, their literal connotations skewed by considered choices of fabrication, colour and detail.
The function-driven considerations of traditionally technical garments – and their defining features – are questioned and defamiliarised, with this season’s trouser offering best exemplifying the collection’s central ethos. Cargos in downy cotton drill are interrupted at the knees by triangular zipper-lined mesh panels – swooping from the buttock down the outer thigh, or placed on both the front and reverse of the knee – developing on the tri-zip motif introduced last season.
All online items are also available in-store.